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The ladies' home journal
Vol. XX, No. 7 (June, 1903)

Ralston, Mrs.
Mrs. Ralston's chat for girls,   p. 45 PDF (1.1 MB)


Page 45

The Ladies' Home Journal for June 19o
A Special Word to Readers of This Page
Mrs. Ralston is in Europe to look over the ad.
vance fashions and to get new ideas for her
JOURNAL work. She will he absent until early in
July. Any letters sent to her during her absence
will be opened and answered by Mrs. Holden.
OR a girl's summer outing suit
flannel is nice. Such a suit as
this is most necessary for wear
in the country, at the seashore
or in the mountains, and should
be made up without a lining. A
skirt and jacket is the best
model to follow in its making-the skirt of
walking length, and the coat a short three-
quarter-length semi-fitting jacket, or, if pre-
ferred, the coat may be made a short jacket
length with a tight-fitting back and a semni-
fitting front. The blue and white and gray
and white mixtures are the best to choose;
trimmings are superfluous. Stitching and
fancy buttons ott the jacket are all that is
necessary. With ail outing suit a simple
shirtwaist and a sailor-shaped hat should
be worn. The new sailor hats for this pur-
pose are pretty and becoming in shape; they
have wider britms than last season's hats,
and low, rather full, crowns; maity of the
brims have a tendency to roll upward at the
edge, the trimmining consisting of a band and
a small bow at one side, or two wings at
either side lying quite flat against the crown.
T HE rough-surfaced pongees and Tussah
silks are nice materials for separate wraps
to wear over summer gowns when traveling,
driving or in the evenings. These coats are
made either to reach to the heml of the skirt
or are made to come just below the hip-line;
they are all made loose-fitting and with ex-
tremely wide full sleeves, which, by-the-way,
are be put into very large armholes. The
soft dull silks, such as the pongees and
Tussahs, are preferred to the stiffer silks, as
taffeta and moir6, for these coats.
A THIN black gown of some description
should certainly be included in the well-
regulated wardrobe, especially in the one
which must be selected oil ai economical
basis. Silk chiffon and figured net lace are
two out of many materials which may be
chosen. Such dresses are better when made
over a silk foundation, though lawn may be
Used if preferred. A rather fully-trimlmed
drop skirt around the lower edge to give the
necessary flare and fluffiness around the feet
is the best model to use for the skirt of
either chiffon or net lace. The net lace can
be bought already trimmed with insertions
and medallions of lace let in. The bodices
of thin black gowns are usually made with
transparent yokes and sleeves. When all
black is not becoming it is pretty to cut
away the net between the figures of lace, and
insert some plaited pieces of white tulle or
chiffon. This gives a very dainty effect; or
the entire yoke may be made of white lace
with jet or black lace scroll designs appliqu6d
upon it. Nothing is more effective with a
black gown than a combination of white or
6cru lace. Such a gown canl be brightened
up with a color, if desired, by the addition
of a high draped girdle made of one of the
soft-colored Pompadour ribbons. The girdle
should be boned at the back, sides and in the
front and fasten at the left side front; the top
part should reach quite to the bust-line at
the left side front and taper down to a point
in the centre of the front. These girdles are
becoming to almost any figure.
TO FILL in unexpected and difficult crevices
in a limited wardrobe nothing will prove
more serviceable and useful than one or two
separate skirts of white
piqu6 or linen duck;
these skirts, of course,
should be made walk-
ing length and are
better when made up in
a gored pattern with
one wide cut flounce.
Skirts of this descrip-
tion may be worn with
a waist of nainsook or
organdy, or oneof linen
crash. A suit like this
is suitable for almost
any occasion in sum-
mer and is quite dressy
enough to wear in the
1- ).-   afternoon.
T HE separate skirt of cloth is indispensable
and a good stand-by to fall back on. A
useful one for wear during the summer for
traveling and for general knockabout pur-
poses is a skirt of homespun, or one of the
mohairs with a tiny white pill stripe. These
skirts may be made up without a lining if
preferred.  As a rule the lighter weight
materials are made in the box-plaited form,
some having a double box-plait forming the
front gore, the underneath folds of which are
cut away around the hips to avoid additional
bulk, and the edges of the plaits stitched
firmly down to an inch or so below the hip-
line. The back of the skirt forms another
double box-plait ; the sides may be made
quite plain, if preferred, or plaited, according
to the size of the wearer. The dark blue
and green checked plaid materials are well
adapted for these separate skirts.
ONCE upon a time a muslin gown meant
but one thing, tile choice in materials
being most limited, but nowadays when one
speaks of a muslin gown it is to refer toagown
which belongs to a class with innumerable
divisions and subdivisions. The muslin
gown occupies an appropriate and important
place in the wardrobe of a girl in June.
Indeed, a girl in June, in muslin, is a com-
bination hard to surpass.
Muslin gowns are within the reach of every
girl.  The fresh, clean, spotless gown, which
goes back and forth fearlessly from the wash-
tub to the wearer, is always to be preferred to
the more elaborately made summer gown,
which, because of its intricate trimming, must
be worn throughout a season without being
laundered. And, as a rule, it is also wise
to leave the unwashable shirtwaist suits to
other materials
than nuslins,
as a muslin
should be made
first of all with
some regard to
simplicity.
Unfortunately
it must be ad-
mitted that the
muslin gowns
of the present
day are not al-
ways madewith
this in view,
but, on the con-
trary, are apt to
be trimmed in
an exaggerated
way.
TUCKINGS.embroideries and laces are
Texclusivelythe trimmings of the season,
although under the heading of embroideries
and laces many novelties have been intro-
duced which are apparently at complete
variance with our conventionalized idea of
what laces and embroideries really should be.
There are this season laces and embroideries
formed of cotton braids which have been made
expressly for use on cotton and linen gowns.
These new trimmings are made in the shape
of medallions which are inserted into the
gown and held in place by fagot-stitching,
the material of course being cut away from
beneath when the medallions are in place.
The medallions are, as a rule, used for the
yokes, the collars and cuffs, and for the
trimmings around the skirts.
AN ECONOMICAL and effective way to
make these inserted medallions is to cut
squares, diamonds or circles of the material
of the gown upon which they are to be used,
and to buttonhole-stitch them  around the
edges, and insert them  in the gown with
rows of fagot-stitching, or they may be
simply hemmed at the edges and inserted
with a narrow beading. This style of trim-
ming is particularly well adapted to the
heavier linen and linen crash gowns. Ap-
plications of this character may also be made
of an entirely different material from that of
the gown, as, for instance, on a gown of linen
crash the insertions may be made of
organdy, and they may differ in color. This
is a simple way of trimming a gown, and is
also very effective and inexpensive, all that
is required being neat sewing and some
patience. The summer gowns will fasten
both in the front and back. Those which
fasten in the back are apt to be becoming to
girls and to women who are slight in figure.
The gown which fastens in the back is usu-
ally of the unlined variety.
T H E embroidered
muslinis and fig-
tired Swisses are two
materials which make
the prettiest kind of
dressy summer gowns
is they require but
little trimmiing. The
best trimming of all
for these thin gowns
is lace; in fact, nowa
days it is taken for
granted that in the
making of all sumnier
clothes there must be
a touch of lace some-
'o
where.  In some cases the combination of
lace and fine white embroidery   upon the
darker linen gowns makes the gowns more
liable to soil quickly.  A rather clever way of
obviating this difficulty is to iake the gowns
up with a separate chetmisette and under-
sleeves of the lace or of fine white goods with
insertions of embroider'.  This chemisette
and undersleeves idea is taken from    the
children's guimpes and is something oilthe
same order., The bodice of the gown is made
with either a low-cut square or round neck,
which the chemisette fills in the form of a
yoke.  The sleeves of the bodice are simply
short caps from beneath which the very fuill
sleeves of the cheiisette fall.  By  this
means the gown of a dark fabric is lightened
tip and may be worn for a much longer time
without washing.
T IE question of neckwear is always an
interesting and difficult one for girls in the
summertime.   With the dressy gowns which
are lace trimmed   the collars this season
match the trimmings; a separate stock is
rarely worn.  The new    stocks almost all
fasten in the back and are of the regular
stock-collar shape with a variety of fancy
shaped ends and tabs in front.   They are
made principally of linen, of white lawn with
insertion of lace, of bands of linen lawn, or
of a fine handkerchief linen and drawn-work.
The general effect of the new stocks this
summer is delicate and dainty.  They do not
in any way resemble the heavy stocks of a
few years ago, nor do they cross and recross
as these stocks did, making an unusual and
uncomfortable  amount of material around
one's throat.  The new stocks are particu-
larly pretty when worn with dark-colored
gowns as they give just the necessary touch
of trimmning; as, for instance, with a shirt and
skirt suit of dark blue and white foulard, or
of summer silk, a stock of litten drawn-work
with wide rolling cuffs to match, no other
trimming would be required.
T HE stiff linen turn-over collar which has
been worn so much in past seasons is now
kept entirely for the severely plain shirt-
waist with stiff starched cuffs, and for tihe
shirtwaist made of the heavier cotton goods.
Such collars are entirely unsuitable to ise
with  shirtwaists of thin, semi-transparent
material, and are intended only to wear with
tailored costumes and blouses intended for
traveling and out-of-door sports.
BOTH useful and pretty are the shirtwaist
dresses of the summer wash silks, par-
ticularly when made on a foundation of sole
light washable material such as lawn, so
that the entire dress may be readily cleaned.
The blind embroideries are pretty to use as
trimmings, for these wsash-silk dresses are
not adapted to hand embroidery.  The more
heavily  patterned  nainsook  embroideries
also make effective trimmings for them.
To all intents and purposes the wash-silk
dress answers the same purpose as a silk
dress, and yet has the good qualities of a
washable cotton material.  The wash silks
may be made in a most dressy style or as
simple shirtwaist suits for the mornings.
THE chief recommendation of the emlbroid-
eries known as blind is their servicea-
bility; they are rather solid and do not wash
nor tear out easily.  The effect of these
embroideries may be obtained to a certain
extent by the home dressmaker by cutting
strips of linen or of one of the heavier naini-
sooks, and stamping them in a rather hold,
conventional design-a   large leaf, for in-
stance - cutting the designs out and button-
hole-stitching the edges. When ant edging is
needed the edges may be stamped in a scal-
lop, buttonhole-stitched and finished with a
few French knots worked in each point.
Page 45
-5--
........
-L
Reduced Prices
on Suits and
Skirts
Because one of the lest-known manu-
factirers of dress goods wants to keep
his mill running during the (lull season,
lhe offered us his most desirable mate-
rials at greatly reduced prices-iuch
less thain their real value-and we
gave him a large order for the newest
Summer fabrics.
These goods are now being delivered
to us, and we are prepared to make
them  up into suits and skirts and pass
them on to you at one-third less than
our regular prices.  Nearly all of our
styles share in this sale.
Here are a few of the bargains which
we shall offer for the next few weeks:
Suits in the newest Summer models, made
of up-to-date materials; former price, 510;
reduced to $6.67.
$12 Suits reduced to S.
$15 Suits reduced to $10.
$25 Suits reduced to $16.67.
$30 Suits reduced to $20.
Etamine Costumes, extremely dressy, light
in weight, cool.
515 Costumes reduced to $10.
$18 Costumes reduced to $12.
$24 Costumes reduced to $16.
Latest designs in Traveling, Walking and
Dressy Skirts, with just the right style to
them; former price, 55; reduced to $3.34.
$6 Skirts reduced to $4.
$7.50 Skirts reduced to $5.
$10 Skirts reduced to $6.67.
$12 Skirts reduced to $8.
Reduced prices on Jackets. Walking Suits,
Traveling Dresses etc.
All letters of inquiry are answered
by women fashion experts who are in a
position to make many helpful sugges-
tions in the way of styles or combina-
tions to suit the taste or figure of those
who do not wish to rely solely o1 their
own judgment.
Orders are filled with the greatest
promptness, very often in three days'
time.
Remember that you take no risk in
dealing with  us. Any garment that
fails to fit or give entire satisfaction
may be returned promptly and you-
owney will be refunded.      It's your
good will we want most.
(:talogue and Suppleiment of the newest
styles, together vith sunples of Sunnner
iateiials, will be sent free by return inail. A
1-stAl will brina theim. If possible, mention
tie color of saniples you desire, as this vill
-   ile is to send you a full a'soritent of just
the tilgs you wih    1Yrite, today. Ihe
choicest good will be   old  first.
NATIONAL CLOAK AND SUIT CO.
119 and 121 W. 23d St.,New York
Mrs. Ralston's Chat for Girls
ILLUSTRATIONS BY KATHARINE N. RICHARDSON


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