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Leahy, R. B.; Doolittle, G. M., 1846-1918 (ed.) / The progressive bee-keeper
Vol. VII, No. 9 (Sep. 1, 1897)

Editorial,   pp. 241-245


Page 244

THE PROGRESSIVE BEE=KEEPER.
settling to the bottom and burning.
Now bring the whole to a boil again,
and skim, if impurities arise, when it
is to be set from the fire, and five
pounds of extracted or liquid honey
stirred in. This gives fifty pounds of
feed of about the consistency of honey,
and as soon as it is cooled, so that it is
a little warmer than blood heat, it is
ready for use. The honey is to prevent
crystalization, and with me proves
just the thing, far superior to cream of
tartar, tartaric acid, vinegar, or any-
thing of the kind.
Feeders.-But     this  instruction
would be incomplete, did I not say
something of how to use this feed after
made, for thousands upon thousands of
bees have been drowned by no advice
being given on this matter of feeding.
Unless a float of some kind is provided,
or a narrow feeder used, the bees will
rush into the syrup till they are scores
deep, and all of those which are crowd-
ed down into the syrup are soon drown-
ed. Where a person has not the prop-
er feeders, or the time to prepare
them, I have found the best thing to
use for such purpose is a common milk
pan. Set this on top of the hive and
fill it with syrnp, after which pull up
two or three handsful of grass and
scatter over the syrup for a float; or
use shavings or corn-cobs, as is prefer-
red. The trouble with these latter is
that they soak up much of the syrup,
while the former do not; and if used
time after time, so as not to waste the
syrup, then they will soon become sour,
thus spoiling the syrup to a more or
less extent for feeding. Set up a small
piece of board or chip against the side
of the pan, so the bees can easily climb
over to the feed, when a small hole is
to be opened to the hive below, by
turning up one corner of the quilt, re-
moving a slat in the honey board, or in
some such way making it possible for
the bees to get at the feed, while at
the same time you keep most of the
heat generated by the bees below.
Now scatter a few drops of feed down
through the hole and over the strip, to
start the bees toward their rations,
and put on the cover, seeing that the
joints are all tight so that no robber
bees can get in. However, if you have
a little time at your command, so that
you can make feeders as follows, you
will find them much more satisfactory:
Get out two pieces of wood, which are
of one-fourth inch lumber, if you can
get such, having the same the size of
your frames, lacking three-fourths of
an inch, which should be short at the
top for an entrance to the feeder.
Nail those to each side of the frame,
putting the nails in quite thickly, and
fitting the joints together with white
lead, so as to prevent leakage. If, af-
ter making, hot beeswax is poured in
till the feeder is full, and allowed to
stay a moment or two till it forces its
way into the wood a little before it is
turned out, there will be no possibility
of that feeder ever leaking, and all
soakage of the feed in the wood, so the
same will become sour, is entirely pre-
vented. Bore a hole through the top
bar to the frame, which is now a feeder,
for a funnel, through which to pour
the syrup, and your feeder is ready,
and, with proper usage, will last a life-
time. Hang it in the hive the same as
a frame, and it can be so left, when not
in use, if desired. To feed, cut a little
slit, to correspond with the hole in the
feeder, in the quilt, enameled cloth, or
whatever you may use to cover the
frames, through which the pointof the
funnel is to be inserted, and the feed
poured in. When the funnel is remov-
ed, the slit in the quilt springs togeth-
er again, thus closing up the place so
that no bees can 1jet out to annoy the
operator.  Where a wooden honey
board is used, a hole can be bored
through it to correspond with the hole
in the feeder, and this hole closed with
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