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Abercromby, John / A trip through the eastern Caucasus

A trip through the eastern Caucasus: chapter I: from Tiflis to Nukha,   pp. [1]-29

Page 14

town of Nukha. The posting-station at the far end 
of the town was full, the townspeople had gone 
to bed, and it was only after a long hunt that 
we found the house of the superintendent of police. 
He was entertaining a few friends at supper, but on 
presenting my letter he at once placed a room at my 
disposal, and introduced me to some of his guests. 
After a twenty-two hours' journey we were all glad 
to have some supper and then go to bed. 
Nukha, Jy 4-7.-The town of Nukha has a 
mixed population of Tatars, Armenians, and Lesgians, 
the latter being more or less migratory. They find 
the heat of the lowlands so oppressive, that many are 
forced to retire into the mountains with the approach 
of the dog days. The town lies in a straggling way 
on both sides of a small valley that penetrates one of 
the last spurs of the great chain of the Caucasus, and 
is traversed by a mountain stream. The shops are 
not of a kind to attract a European purchaser, though 
they are not unpicturesque when looked at in the 
mass. I was not, however, prepared to find carriages 
-here called phaetons-plying for hire, just as at 
Tiflis. For there is no hotel of any kind, though 
there is limited accommodation at the post-station, 
and for natives there is the caravanserai, which pro- 
vides stabling for horses and an unfurnished apart- 
ment for sleeping in. 
On an eminence higher up the valley stands the 
citadel and the palace, formerly inhabited by the 
Persian governor of the province of Shaki. I visited 
the latter in company with M. Selefko, the head of 

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