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Abercromby, John / A trip through the eastern Caucasus
(1889)

A trip through the eastern Caucasus: chapter I: from Tiflis to Nukha,   pp. [1]-29


Page 13

FROM TIFLIS TO NUKHA. 
It was nearly dark when we reached the small 
Lesgian village of Kakh, but there was light enough 
to see that the houses were well built, looked clean 
and comfortable, and had very high-pitched, tiled 
roofs.  This architectural feature must have been 
borrowed from the Georgians, as in the proper home 
of the Lesgians beyond the mountains the roofs are 
always flat. 
It was soon too dark to see the surrounding land- 
scape. The only light was the stars, and the only 
object of distraction was the passage of an occasional 
mountain stream. At the next halting-place, Geinuk, 
the last before reaching Nukha, the little commis 
voyageur was considerably perturbed.    He had been 
talking to the postmaster, and had heard of recent 
robberies on the road.     One of the villages near 
which we must pass was inhabited by noted bad 
characters. It was absolutely necessary to load the 
guns and prepare for action. As I never believed 
much of what he told me, I demurred. " If we are 
attacked, I wash myself of all responsibility," he 
said, with the air of a man who has nobly acquitted 
himself of his responsibility. " All right," was the 
reply.  The guns were left unloaded, and the ill- 
disposed persons remained tranquilly at home. 
This last stage was over a horrible road. There 
seemed to be no end of water-courses, some full, 
others nearly dry, but all equally jolty. How the 
Tatar driver, a mere scrap of a boy, managed to 
keep his seat without falling was a marvel.       At 
last, about 1 a.m., we drove into the very dimly-lit 


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