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Bryce, James, Viscount / Transcaucasia and Ararat, being notes of a vaction tour in the autumn of 1876, by James Bryce
(1896)

Chapter VIII: Etchmiadzin and the Armenian people,   pp. [311]-345


Page [311]

CHAPTER VIII 
ETCHMIADZIN AND THE ARMENIAN PEOPLE 
A'FTER returning to Erivan from Ararat, we made a 
hurried expedition to the famous monastery of Etch- 
miadzin, which claims to be the oldest monastic 
foundation in the world, and has for many centuries 
been the seat of the Armenian Patriarch or Katho- 
likos, the spiritual head of all true Armenians, in what- 
soever empire, Russian, Turkish, Persian, Austrian, 
or British, they may dwell.   It is distant about 
thirteen miles, some two hours' driving, from Erivan, 
and the journey gave us our first experience of that 
wonderful vehicle the Russian telega. Our faithful 
tarantass had suffered from the roads to Aralykh, 
and been obliged to go into hospital, so at the post- 
house they produced to us this contrivance-a cart, or 
shallow lidless box, about six feet long by four wide, 
set upon wheels with no pretence of springs or any- 
thing in the nature of springs. A little hay was 
thrown in, among which we were told to squat. We 
put in a travelling-bag, but soon found it impossible 
to sit upon that, or on the sides of the box itself, for 
the jolting knocked one about like a pea on a hot iron. 


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