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The craftsman
(April 1913)
Practical points about Craftsman woodwork, pp. 125-128
Page 127
PRACTICAL POINTS ABOUT CRAFTSMAN WOODWORK
FIGURE 3; AN ELEVATION OF A PLAIN PLASTERED WALL IN A CRAFTSMAN ROOM SHOWING
THE PROPORTIONS
AND SPACING OF DOOR, WINDOWS AND CHAIR RAIL.
having all been carefully worked out so In some cases, of course, flush
joints are
that the construction will be practical, eco- preferable, as where the door
and window
nomical and at the same time as decorative heads and the window bases meet
the side
as possible. casings, or between the side
and cross pan-
Along the bottom of the wall, broken only els of a door, where it is desirable
to keep
by the doorway, is the usual sub-base and the joint as inconspicuous as
possible.
baseboard, the latter being 9 inches wide In Figure I four small-paned
casement
and Il/ inch thick. Another board of the windows have been shown, and
these are
same thickness but 7Y inches wide runs simply hinged in the openings
between the
along the top of the wall against the ceil- side casings and central mullions,
and, the
ing, and against this board the built-up stops nailed on. With double-hung
win-
cross beams abut. One of these beams is dows a somewhat different construction
shown in an enlarged sectional detail in the would be necessary. Small glass
panes are
left hand of Figure i. It consists of a solid also used in the door, for
they not only ad-
piece of wood 2Y4 inches square, which is mit more light to the room, but
carry out
nailed to the ceiling and forms the support the general decorative effect
of the wall
to which the side pieces are attached. These space.
side boards are rabbetted at the bottom to In Figure 2 is an elevation
of the inside
receive the bottom board so that the lines wall of a Craftsman room showing
another
of the joints will come near the corners of typical form of construction
about which
the beam and thus be less noticeable, we often receive inquiries-namely,
V-
On each side of the door and window jointed boards. The boards are
78 inch
openings are upright boards or casings 5 thick, and they should not be
too wide or
inches wide and Y8 inch thick, and in order they will shrink when dry, and
expand and
to carry out the panel effect and make these buckle in a moist atmosphere.
From 6 to
boards seem a natural part of the construc- 8 inches is the best width if
oak or chestnut
tion. they have been carried all the way up is used, but if the boards are
of Georgia
to the ceiling board, against which they pine, cypress, California redwood
or other
abut, so that they appear to support it. soft varieties they may be wider,
as there
The ceiling board projects Y4 inch over will be less danger from shrinkage
and ex-
the uprights, and this point is especially pansion. In any case, it is a
good plan to
worth noting, for the relative thicknesses of use a coat of paint or tar
on the back of
various parts of the woodwork play an im- the boards to keep out the moisture.
portant r6le in the final effect. Through- V-jointing can be done by any
carpenter.
out the woodwork of our houses, as in our for it is very simple, as the
enlarged sec-
furniture, we prefer to work with two or tional detail in Figure 2 shows.
We use a
more thicknesses of wood; for the shadow splined joint, as we have found
that this is
formed by the projecting piece, while it stronger than the tongue and
groove. The
helps to conceal the actual joint, emphasizes main advantage of a V-joint
is that the ver-
the main lines of the construction and gives tical lines of the joint emphasize
the height
the work an appearance of greater solidity, of the wall, and the shadow of
the groove
Besides, there is always a little interest in a gives a little interest
to the surface and pre-
broken, shadowed surface which a flat sur- vents monotony.
face with flush joints lacks. In this drawing, as in the
others, the
127
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