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The book of trades; or, Familiar descriptions of the most useful trades, manufactures, and arts practised in England : and the manner in which the workmen perform their various employments.
(undated, inscribed 1829)

The hatter.,   pp. 56-57 ff.


Page 56


           THE HATTER.
   TIIE materials now generally used by
 hat-makers, are lamb's wool, rabbit's and
 hare's fur, beaver, seal-wool, camel's
 hair, monkey stuff, or neuter wool, goat's
 hair, or estridge silk and cotton.  The
 best fur is from the backs of different
 animnals ; it decreases in value as it ap-
 proaches the belly.  The   skin of the
 heaver undergoes various operations; the
 first process is bowing, and the quantity
 that is bowed is called a batt. When the
 batt is sufficiently bowed it is ready for hard-
 ening, which is the first commencement
 of felting; then follows the operation of
 basoning, which is succeeded by a still
 more effectual continuation of the felt-
 ing, called working and soaking in a
 battery. Water is only used in the ope-
 ration of fashioning or blocking, after
 which it is pressed by the blunt edge of
 a copper implement, called a stamper.
 The last dressing is given by the appli-
 cation of moisture and heat, and the use
 of the brush and a hot iron. Thus softened
 the hat is drawn upon a block and the judg-
ment of the workman is employed in further
moistening, brushing, and ironing the hat in
order to give and preserve the proper figure.


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