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COOKING OF FISH.
to boil the fish well, but not to let it break.  Cod and had-
dock are much better for being a little salted, and kept for
a day.
  There is often a muddy smell and taste attached to fresh-
water fish, which may be got rid of by soaking it, after it
has been thoroughly cleaned in strong salt and water; or, if
the fish is not too large, scald it in the same; then dry, and
dress it.
   Care should be taken that the fish is put into cold water,
and allowed to do very gently, otherwise the outside will
break before the inside is done.
  If the fish is not taken out of the water the instant it is
done, it will become woolly; to ascertain when it is ready,
the fish plate on which it is dressed may be drawn up, and
if sufficiently done it will leave the bone. To keep hot for
serving, and to prevent it from losing its colour, the fish
plate should be placed crossways over the fish-kettle, and a
clean cloth put over the fish.
   Small fish may be either nicely fried plain, or done over
with egg and bread-crumbs, and then fried. Upon the dish
on which the fish is to be served, should be placed a folded
damask napkin, and upon this put the fish, with the liver
and roe; then garnish the dish with horse-radish, parsley,
and lemon. Fish is a dish which is almost more attended
to than any other.
  To fry or broil fish properly, after it is well cleaned and
washed, it should be wrapped in a nice soft cloth, and when
perfectly dry, wetted with egg, and sprinkled all over with
very fine bread-crumbs; it will look still better to be done
over with egg and crumbs a second time. Then having
on the fire a thick-bottomed frying-pan, with plenty of lard
or dripping, boiling hot, put the fish into it, and let it fry
tolerably quick till it is done, and of a nice brown yellow.
  If it is done before it has obtained a nice brown colour,
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