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The book of trades; or, Familiar descriptions of the most useful trades, manufactures, and arts practised in England : and the manner in which the workmen perform their various employments.
(undated, inscribed 1829)
The hatter., pp. 56-57 ff.
Page 56
THE HATTER.
TIIE materials now generally used by
hat-makers, are lamb's wool, rabbit's and
hare's fur, beaver, seal-wool, camel's
hair, monkey stuff, or neuter wool, goat's
hair, or estridge silk and cotton. The
best fur is from the backs of different
animnals ; it decreases in value as it ap-
proaches the belly. The skin of the
heaver undergoes various operations; the
first process is bowing, and the quantity
that is bowed is called a batt. When the
batt is sufficiently bowed it is ready for hard-
ening, which is the first commencement
of felting; then follows the operation of
basoning, which is succeeded by a still
more effectual continuation of the felt-
ing, called working and soaking in a
battery. Water is only used in the ope-
ration of fashioning or blocking, after
which it is pressed by the blunt edge of
a copper implement, called a stamper.
The last dressing is given by the appli-
cation of moisture and heat, and the use
of the brush and a hot iron. Thus softened
the hat is drawn upon a block and the judg-
ment of the workman is employed in further
moistening, brushing, and ironing the hat in
order to give and preserve the proper figure.
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