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Search results for 'textile' > 'Asia' > 'Pakistan'
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51. shawl

Female, Female

1940/1997

Native name: chadder / Native name: phulkari / Large rectangular embroidered (phulkari) head covering made from two commercially woven panels of natural colored cotton joined by a center seam running the length of the garment. Surface has been brilliantly and densely embroidered in darning, cross and back stitch motifs of silk threads in magenta, brown, orange, green, yellow, blue and red. Dense embroidery covers the piece with the exception of the central field which is covered with embroidered medallions. Ends of head covering are symmetrical in patterning with five bands of embroidery that start at the edges and meet the center field. The second band closest to the edge is the largest (15') and is filled with medallions held within cross-stitched darned and rhomboid lines that form a larger diamond, cross and triangular pattern. The other bands consist of 2 rows of abstrated geometric forms and 2 rows of medallions with densely embroidered triangles at the corner and center edges. A 2 3/4' abstracted, embroidered band runs along the sides of the center field.

Asia, Pakistan, North-West Frontier

shawl / apparel / head covering / female / adult / ram / star / medallion / rhomboid / line / geometric / patterned / abstract

The Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection

University of Wisconsin-Madison. School of Human Ecology



52. blouse

Female, Female

1930/1970

Native name: chola / Native name: cholo / Or Pallari or Burfati people. Woman's short sleeved pull over blouse constructed from multi-colored silk panels with dense embroidery and mirror work. Front has three panels-green, red and orange-with sleeve bands of orange, dk. blue and magenta and side panels of orange, blue and magenta. The top green panel goes over the shoulders and stops at the upper back, then there is a thin panel (strip) of magenta and the majority of the back panel is orange silk. The top front is heavily embroidered with mostly red and blue silk threads, the midsection with red and the bottom with mostly orange. It is evenly covered with dense mirror work all over and sequins on the bottom two panels. The back section is embroidered heavily with mostly blue silk thread and the orange panel stands out brightly in sections. Gold threads are couched in circular patterns that are raised up from the fabric. It is lined with multicolored cotton fabric. It closes at the back neckline with multicolored braided cotton. / Sewing machine

Asia, Pakistan, Sindh

blouse / apparel / upper body covering / female / adult / Lohana Tribe/people / circle / square / zig-zag / diamond / patterned / geometric

The Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection

University of Wisconsin-Madison. School of Human Ecology



Female, Female

1940/1980

Native name: takhai pos / Hazara or Swat regions of the NWFP Pakistan. Rectangular cotton cushion cover, geometric silk embroidered patterns, with a separate front and back that is held together by 27 metal buttons (3 are missing), and a black cord that edges both pieces. Both pieces have a border of hexagon-shaped designs (guls_ made up of ram's horns motifs in red, magenta, yellow-green, and blue silk thread. Motifs are a darning stitch and outlined in a stitch. Side 1: the central rectangular field has a central diamond made of four triangular guls banded by magenta border. Two magenta bands that look like greater than ( > ) and lesser than ( < ) signs radiate in either side filled with guls and geometric patterning. Side 2: Central field has two full diamonds and two half diamonds with magenta embroidery encasing red ram's horns and patterning diamond points. / Each panel was embroidered, hemmed then the buttons and cord were applied.

Asia, Pakistan, North-West Frontier

cushion cover / domestic / surface covering / pillow cover / border / diamond / hexagon / ram horns / rectangle / geometric / organic / stripe

The Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection

University of Wisconsin-Madison. School of Human Ecology



54. dress

Female, Female

1950/1990

Palas Valley in Indus Kohistan (Colours of the Indus, p. 123) Black cotton straight cut dress with a band collar and front neck opening, embroidered and adorned front and side panels and sleeves and side slits. A silk chain stitch creates a multitude of meandering lines in orange, pink, green and yellow to make abstract motifs and flower shapes. A hurmitch stitch patterning in pink, orange, yellow and green line the borders of the cuffs and blouse front opening. Three white plastic buttons and two metal coins are used to close the front. Metal snaps and white seed beads line neckline embroidery. Scattered throughout the embroidery are multi-colored plastic buttons, gold metal buttons, and metal ornaments. Two metal keychain latches are attached at the bottom of the central-front panel. Two metal ornaments are attached at the apex of the side slits. / Embroidered panels are sewn together for the bodice; the sleeves are sewn and then embroidered.

Asia, Pakistan, North-West Frontier

dress / apparel / upper body covering / female / flower / border / diamond / cross / loop / line, meandering / abstract / geometric

The Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection

University of Wisconsin-Madison. School of Human Ecology



Female, Female

1900/1949

Native name: thalposh / Small rectangular red cototn sampler with dense multi-colored embroidery of various types in geometric shapes covering the center and bands of multi-colored embroidery at each hemmed warp end. There is a large embroidered center square and 2 smaller on either side at the selvedge edges. There are five embroidered squares in a row from selvedge to selvedge of two alternating sizes. The squares are mostly satin stitched. The bands at the ends contain geometric and floral shapes with striped borders. There are two circles of hurmitch stitch throughout. / The warp edges are foled under and hand sewn. Piece is composed of three pieces of fabric (or one piece that was cut and hand sewn back together), there are sections of hurmitch stitch that have not been completed and/or wore away.

Asia, Pakistan, Sindh

sampler, embroidery / special occasion / sample / female / dowry cloth / Mahar Tribe/people / square / circle / stripe / flower / geometric / stripe

The Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection

University of Wisconsin-Madison. School of Human Ecology



56. dress

Shahida bibi, Shahida bibi

1997/1998

Native name: piran / Krakal is located in the Burnburet Valley - one of the Kalash Valleys in Chitral. Voluminous black long sleeved A-line floor length machine embroidered dress with various colors of bright pastel yarn in a band around the cuffs, along the hemline and in a square in the front and back around a shallow V-neck. The cuffs and hemline form a band with orange, green and blue parallel yarns encompassing green and magenta squares that lie behind a blue a white zig-zag line. The neck has multi-colored squares in 4 vertical panels, two on either side of opening and a long horizontal panel along the bottom. Each panel is bordered by parallel yarns and silver colored rick rack. On the shoulders are one green and one orange and yellow palm leaf. The back is exactly the same. / Garment is constructed using a sewing machine. / A sewing machine was used to attach the yarns to the hemline, cuffs and yoke.

Asia, Pakistan, North-West Frontier

dress / apparel / full body covering / female / Kalash Tribe/people / stripe / square / triangle / zig-zag / geometric / patterned / vegetation / stripe

The Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection

University of Wisconsin-Madison. School of Human Ecology



57. sash

Shahida bibi, Shahida bibi

1997/1998

Krakal is located in the Burnburet Valley--one of the Kalah Valleys in Chitral. Very long red synthetic belt with long red fringe and tapestry in multi-colored pastel synthetic yarn at each end. Each end has 3 multi colored narrow bands bordering a wider band that has 2 narrow bands bordering it. One central band is wider than the other. The end with the narrow band has a pink ground with two full diamonds bordered by blue with pink 'x''s in their centers and 2 green triangles at each end. The end with the wider band has a grey ground and a diamond with 2 triangles on either side. It is bordered by small blue squares. The full square is filled with green and yellow diamonds with pink 'x''s in the centers. / Wefts in the patterned areas are inserted and selvage edge fringes are created with excess weft lengths. Back side of colored pattern areas have weft tails hanging wildly, every-which-way. Warp fringe is finished with a braid parrallel to the last row of weft.

Asia, Pakistan, North-West Frontier

sash / apparel / accessory / female / belt / Kalash Tribe/people / stripe / square / triangle / "X" / geometric / striped

The Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection

University of Wisconsin-Madison. School of Human Ecology



58. hat

Female, Female

1975/1999

Small black cotton domed baby's hat with ear flaps and stuffed ball on the top. Hat is heavily embroidered and embellished with buttons, beads, bells, metal rings and zipper teeth. Top of hat is made of synthetic print pulled into the top knot. Hat front is decorated with a band of three circular beaded motifs and a plastic 'horned' and metal ornament. Hat is lined in black cotton and multi-colored cotton print. / There is one side of a zipper sewn along the edge of the bottom back. In the front, three half zippers are coiled and sewn onto the base fabric. At the top, the fabric is bunched and stuffed to form a stiff ball and is embellished. Tiny black pompons of thread poke through metal rings and encircle the crown.

Asia, Pakistan, North-West Frontier

hat / apparel / head covering / child / circle / zig-zag / diamond / fork / stripe / paisley / geometric / patterned

The Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection

University of Wisconsin-Madison. School of Human Ecology



59. Chakki

Male, Muslim, Khatri, Siddique Qasim, workshop of Mohammad, Male, Muslim, Khatri, Siddique Qasim, workshop of Mohammad

1998/1998

Native name: ajrak / Rectangular, white, plain woven, cotton fabric printed in an indigo resist, black dye, a mordant for red, and then bleached. It has been dipped in red and blue dye so the areas that are not resisted are blue - the ground of the pattern, and the outer border. Thre areas printed with mordant are red flowers, 3 pointed stars, circles, center dot of 6 pointed stars. The print forms a pattern within a large square with a border and a pattern in the central field of circles, stars, and flowers. There are two selvages and two cut edges. / Tapai: in this step of the ajrak process the fabric is bleached in the white areas and the dye is allowed to mature in the red areas.

Asia, Pakistan, Sindh

sample, print / apparel / multipurpose / male/female / sample / star / circle / flower / dot / stripe / abstract / floral / patterned / stripe

The Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection

University of Wisconsin-Madison. School of Human Ecology



60. chakki

Male, Muslim, Siddique Qasim, workshop of Mohammad, Khatri, Male, Muslim, Siddique Qasim, workshop of Mohammad, Khatri

1998/1998

Native name: ajrak / Native name: chaddar / Native name: odhani / Native name: saafa / Native name: bipuri / Native name: patko / Patko, saafa: turban; Ajrak: a type of resist print; Chaddar: bed sheet; Odhani: head covering; Bipuri: shawl; Jaal: central pattern; Chakki: type of pattern Large rectangular plain woven cotton fabric has been stitched down the center to attach two widths; cut edges are hemmed. Fabric is dyed red, black and indigo using a mordant for red and a resist for indigo. There is a border of circles and flowers and the central field is printed in a pattern of circles, stars and flowers. / Ajrak block

Asia, Pakistan, Sindh

wrapped garment / apparel / multipurpose / male/female / bed sheet / head cover / turban / shawl / star / circle / flower / dot / stripe / abstract / floral / patterned / stripe

The Helen Louise Allen Textile Collection

University of Wisconsin-Madison. School of Human Ecology